Where to climb at the RRG
Climbing festivals are all about community, but it’s also a chance to get out and explore! While we do have an ACF HQ at Bruise Brothers in Muir Valley, we will have more people attending this year than that one crag can support. Here is our list of other areas to check out, as well as notes on their accessibility. Generally, you’ll want to have someone in your group who is comfortable leading up to 5.10+ sport to be able to enjoy the most of these areas.
Bring a stick clip and stoke and you’ll have a great time!
Hazel Hollow, Bald Rock Recreation Preserve
Distance from Lago Linda’s - 20 minutes
Accessibility - good, rugged steep for WC but fairly well done trail for foot traffic. One of the shortest approach trails.
Climbs - The best 5.5, 5.6 and 5.9 in the gorge! Also a very fun 10a and 11a-b.
Travel note- high clearance vehicle with AWD/4WD strongly recommended for Motherlode hill.
Area Link - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/122724564/hazel-hollow
Left Flank, North Gorge
Distance from Lago Linda’s - 45-1 hr. This could be a good option for those headed north on Sunday as it’s not too far off the Mountain Highway.
Accessibility - Not WC accessible, ok for side sticks, 20 minutes approach on moderate well made trail. Some loose steep dirt near end of trail and uneven ground around route bases.
Climbs - Very fun 5.8-5.10 right where trail meets cliff. Another fun 5.9 to the right, and then a classic 10a around the left. The North Gorge is an older area and as such is a little (or a lot) sandbagged and the bolting can be spacier than other areas. Many of these climbs have a harder-than-the-grade crux at the start so use that stick clip!
Area Link - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105868848/left-flank
Velo Crag, Pendergrass Murray Recreation Preserve
Distance from Lago Linda’s - 30 minutes
Accessibility - about a quarter mile of dirt logging road gets you most of the way to the crag, then there will be a dirt trail to crag base for a hundred yards or so. Base is uneven and mostly unimproved.
Climbs- left of where the trail meets the wall are fun 5.8-5.10 routes. Lots of other, harder routes around. Area is generally quieter than other crags.
Travel note- high clearance vehicle with AWD/4WD strongly recommended for Motherlode hill.
Area link - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/109609520/velo-crag
Guide Wall, Muir Valley
Distance from Lago Linda’s -30 minutes to parking lot. This is the same lot as for main fest so you will be able to shuttle or hike to valley floor as needed.
Accessibility - from valley floor, a relatively short and easy trail to the wall. WC questionable, other walking aids would be ok.
Climbs - short and sweet! A series of fun 5.7 and 5.8 climbs.
Note - This may be crowded with guided groups. Please be considerate of other users of the crag.
Area link- https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107204410/guide-wall
The Nursery, Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
Distance from Lago Linda’s - 25 minutes
Accessibility - well made, relatively flat path, not WC friendly. Some rocky steps. Would be considered ‘easy’ 30 minute approach for an abled person.
The climbs - many easier, low angled routes, 5.6-11.
Travel note - Hell Creek road is a little rugged, but most vehicles should be fine when driven with care.
Area link - https://www.mountainproject.com/area/110529899/the-nursery